
There is public transit in Amsterdam, most noticeably in the form of bright blue trams, which share the road with a sea of black bikes and tiny cars (I'm putting the over/under for crippled American tourists per summer at nine - yes, insensitive, but these things have no conscience. The trams not the American tourists - okay, maybe both). As a visitor, however, I think the best way to see the city, and remember what it's like to be ten again, is to rent a bike and jump in the mix. The city's traffic is completely oriented around Amsterdam's preferred mode of travel and, while often intimidating, the learning curve is not so steep. I say this because
De Kas almost certainly requires a bike ride. Set off from the road, just south of Oosterpark and probably three or four miles from the city center. About a 30-minute ride from our Jordaan location, we allowed the time and had fun with with it (post meal it was a welcome bit of exercise)...
On approach, you at once feel completely isolated as you would in a city garden or state park (either of which, this area might actually be). A well-manicured children's playground and grassy patch of ground are all that share this slice of solitude with De Kas. De Kas is made up of two connected greenhouses, one an actual greenhouse that helps feed the guests and the other a giant dining room with clean, unobtrusive light filling a massive space...
The menu is set and they accept substitutions only for vegetarians and allergies (during my recital the waitress actually sat down to remember my list). Five courses (three appetizers brought out simultaneously, one entrée, and a dessert) for 47.50 Euros. Before ordering, they offered Champagne with basil from the garden, which was a nice touch. The earthy basil competing with the bubbles... The wine for the night was an Australian shiraz (
Shotfire Ridge 2004) which was outstanding. Later, I learned it's a relatively cheap ($15-20) 92-point (Robert Parker) bargain if you can find it...
The menu wasn't revealed to us up front, which I liked. As we became engrossed in conversation, a new plate would make an appearance requiring a lengthy explanation...
Veal with lemon foam and pesto atop ratatouilleSaffron cauliflower with proscuitto, assorted tomatoes and gnocchiSoft-boiled egg atop butter lettuce and french beans with shaved truffles and parmesanGrilled duck breast with parsley risotto, chanterelles w/ garlic and (a long) radish (-type thing)Marinated plum pastry with sheep's milk frozen yogurt and a pistacchio cookieWhere do I start? The small chunk of veal (airplane meal sized) was cooked perfectly. The soft boiled egg/truffle/parmesan combo was flavorful without trying too hard. But the best course, oddly, was the cauliflower. So fresh, cooked so perfectly with saffron used so sparingly (maybe only for color), it typified the meal. Yes, I knew De Kas was all about the fresh ingredients from their property, but that's pretty much everyone's schtick nowadays. Only this was no schtick, they really let the food speak for itself, with just enough restraint on the spices to complement, not distract. The entrée-sized duck breast was also cooked to perfection, tender and flavorful with the just-picked parsley taste of the risotto. The dessert was outstanding. Again, the perfect balance of sweetness, and like the rest of the meal, so clearly made for an adult's sense of taste. The sheep's milk frozen yogurt is, I'm guessing, what
Pinkberry is striving to replicate (I'll know if I ever decide to wait on the lines)...
In short, the meal was near-perfect. From the rare European no smoking rule (a plus for us), to the relaxed yet focused service, to the unbelievable food. Before all of today's restauranteurs build their menus around "what's fresh at the market" and "make the food the star" they should be ordered to enjoy a meal at De Kas...
Rating: 9.5 / 10.0Cost: $$$+De Kas
Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3
1097 DE Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 462 45 62