Translated from Babel Fish, it means: blue to the rampart. Translated from Webster's Dictionary, rampart means: an embankment built around a space for defensive purposes [note: back off, I know it's in the Star Spangled Banner, but it's been awhile since I've used it in a sentence]. In other words, I have no idea what the name means (and I didn't think to ask). What Blauw aan de Wal is, is an odd culinary gem in the most unlikely of places. In the heart of Amsterdam's Red Light District, through a graffiti-tagged alley and next to a tiny courtyard, is the two-story, white-linen restaurant. In fact, upon entering the alley I was graciously offered "yay-yo, speed or ecstacy" by someone who, I can only assume, wasn't affiliated with the restaurant (I could always be wrong)...
Inside, what I found was an uber attentive staff waiting to seat us and cater to our every need. The menu was short, but complex, with each of the appetizers and entrees prepared with fresh ingredients into a sophisticated rendering. The wine list was light on by-the-glass offerings, but had a nice diversity of choices by the bottle. We opted for the "set menu" - a three course meal of off-the-menu specials for 44 Euros...
Tompouce of Scottish Salmon with hard-boiled egg, fresh herbs, anchovies, capers and a roasted red pepper dressing
Bacon-wrapped Monkfish with roasted tomatoes and orange zest on creamy polenta
Verbena parfait with herbs topped with an orange confit
Evidently, a tompouce is traditionally a Dutch dessert with some type of cream between two wafers. In this case the wafers were Scottish Salmon and the cream was an egg salad-like mixture with the salty capers and anchovies adding a nice touch. At the end of the day, however, I don't like egg salad, so while this was an inventive dish and I'm sure a lot of people would enjoy it (most likely people with a penchant for egg salad), I didn't love it. The wine that accompanied the appetizer, however, was a perfect match. Las Brisas is an inexpensive Spanish wine that by itself was nothing special, but when paired with the salmon and egginess of the appetizer, really came to life...
On to the monkfish... I love bacon. I love things wrapped in bacon (usually having something to do with the bacon). I have come to realize that I do not, however, love monkfish. I don't recall ever having monkfish and I found it exceptionally meaty and not in a swordfish or sharky kind of way. It was cooked to perfection, I have no doubt, but like the aforementioned egg salad, I just don't think I really like monkfish (having nothing to do with the nightmares I will have as a result of the monkfish pictured above - he's scary and mean looking and I'm glad, in that way, I ate him). The wine the waiter suggested was solid and a good match, although I've never been a huge Rosé fan (a Graf Hardegg 2005 Rosé from Austria)...
The dessert was good. The waiter kindly explained how a parfait is basically ice cream that, instead of being turned and turned and turned into ice cream, is simply put into the freezer (and it seems he was right, although America's globalization machine had me thinking it was a fruit/yogurt mixture). The dessert was definitely the most enjoyable part of the meal...
Overall, it's a tough one. I didn't really enjoy my meal, especially relative to what it cost, but I can't help wondering if this is one of those "it's not you it's me" instances. If I was a monkfish-loving, egg salad-craving wild man, I'm sure my take would be different. Although I'm not sure I'd be as much fun at cocktail parties...
Rating: 5.5/10.0
Cost: $$$+
Blauw aan de Wal
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 99
Dam, Amsterdam
+31 (020) 330 22 57
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