Mesob - Montclair, NJ

Up to now, I've resisted blogging about local restaurants, but as Montclair (12 miles west of NYC) has grown as a destination for Northern Jersey suburbanites, the dining options have made it, IMHO, blog-worthy...

I've been to Mesob a half-dozen times and one thing never fails. Regardless of my mood, appetite or dining partner, I will leave uncomfortably full. Sickeningly full. The culprit being that light (you think - ha!), spongy Injera (Ethiopian Bread). There are no utensils, so every bite is transported in the Injera as it absorbs the flavors and oils and herbs of the various dishes. Even better, the piles of stewed meats and vegetables are neatly arranged on a giant canvas of Injera. Just when you think you're completely full is when you dig into the bits of bread that have acted as a place mat and spent the meal soaking up flavor...

But don't get scared off. I'm quite certain my requirement to engorge myself with food is a character trait (read as: no self-control) and most "normal" people will simply stop eating when they are full. I am not familiar with this custom...

And it's more than a gimmick. The food is full of deep, fragrant flavors. Spicy, yes, but not simplistically so. My favorites are: Doro Tips (marinated chicken), Kitfo (Ethiopean beef tartare), and the Halibut (which I see isn't on their online menu, but was still on the menu when I was last in the restaurant)...

The decor is simple, but tasteful and inviting. A mesob is actually the straw(?) table that some of the diners use in the restaurant (there are still a number of "regular" tables), which is a customary Ethiopian eating table. It's small, but if you're a party of two it's perfect...

And as is the case with any downtown Montclair restaurant, since it's BYOB you get the opportunity to browse the tremendous (and unique) wine selection at Amanti Vino down the street. Just tell them what you're eating and they'll recommend something wonderful (I had a great Gewurztraminer)...

Cost: $$
Rating: 6.5/10.0

Mesob
515 Bloomfield Avenue
Montclair, NJ
973.655.9000

Crispo - NYC

Growing up in suburban New Jersey meant "family style Italian food" was as ubiquitious as Starbucks. Red sauce this, Parmigiana that. Some good, some bad. And while Italian American fare became comfort food for me, it's no longer what I'll seek out when seeking to expand my culinary horizons. Fair or not, I just don't find it that interesting any more. Which is what makes Crispo such a revelation...

I initially found Crispo on recommendation from my step-brother* whose Wall Street executive lifestyle has him entertaining and sampling some of NYCs best restaurants. And each time I've returned it's been consistently enjoyable...

The menu is exceptional. Broad, varied, but true to the core Italian ingredients and flavors that people know and love. The anitpasti or affettati allow you to sample anything that looks good, from the Prosciutto di San Daniele, Parmigiano & Figs to the Sausage Stuffed Sage Leaves. It's all good...

The entrees are solid, but it's really about the pastas. Whether the Orcchiette with Broccoli Rabe or the Bucatini alla Amatriciana or their award-winning Carbonara, they are all prepared with care and attention. The Carbonara's not too rich or too heavy. The Bucatini's cooked perfectly in a delicate, perfectly spiced sauce. I rarely eat much pasta any more, but when making a trip to Crispo's, it's a must...

If you're going w/ a group larger than 6 or so, I'd ask for the special room, it's a small room/alcove within the larger dining room that makes for a great, somewhat secluded time...

For what it is and for what it's trying to be, it's hard not to call Crispo: perfect...

Cost: $$
Rating: 8.5/10.0

Crispo
240 West 14th Street
NY, NY
212.229.1818

*Excerpt from email from said step-brother: "I have NO problem w/ you pawning off Crispo as your own discovery as long as I get some form of recognition. Even if said recognition comes in the form of an email forward that no one else will ever see. In the end it’s not about me, it’s about spreading culinary bliss. (That line should somehow make it into an entry on ihateshellfish.)"